How To Choose An Engagement Ring

Congratulations! You’ve made the most difficult choice of all (picking a person to spend the rest of your life with), so deciding on an engagement ring should be simple….shouldn’t it?

Not necessarily so. Choosing an engagement ring takes some thinking about. Not only does buying an engagement ring involve parting with a sizeable amount of money, but you are also about to choose an item that the lucky recipient (or indeed you, if you are fortunate enough to be choosing your own ring) will likely be adorning your intended’s hand every single day of their life, so it’s rather imperative that they like it. Of course, it’s no small matter that it also serves as a permanent and public representation your love and commitment to each other.

Before we delve into the jeweller’s engagement ring cabinet, you may be interested to know where the tradition of buying rings for engagements came from. It’s generally thought that the custom began with the Romans, who would give their wives rings with tiny keys attached to indicate the husband’s ownership (the Romans were not well-known for their parity between the sexes). Sometime later in the 15th century, it appears that the first diamond engagement ring was given by the Austrian Archduke Maximilian to his betrothed, Mary of Burgundy, to mark their intended nuptials. The idea caught on amongst the Renaissance aristocracy and this sparked off the now almost universal practice of giving a diamond ring upon the occasion of asking someone to marry us.

The diamond hasn’t by no means always been so ubiquitous with engagement rings, during the middle ages emeralds, rubies and sapphires were all popular. The Victorians too were keen on a variety of stones for engagement rings, a trend that continued on in the Edwardian age, which saw a revival during the 60’s and early 70’s.

And that brings us right up-to-date as coloured gemstones are enjoying a serious revival and their value is rising, making them a good long-term investment too. It should be mentioned that whilst diamonds might be considered a girl’s (or boy’s) best friend some people simply aren’t fussed by diamonds or want something a little different to the norm. There is no rule that all engagement rings must be diamonds, so if you’re loved one isn’t as passionate for diamonds as they are for you, be creative and choose something original. It is worth being aware, however, that softer stones can be vulnerable to scratching, making it better to stick to the harder gemstones for rings that are likely to be worn every day. Another reason why diamonds are prominent, as they are the hardest of all gems and will happily take everyday wear in their stride.

Choosing a stone (or stones) is the first step but it’s by no means the only factor to consider. Should you choose a modern or traditional style? Which metal should you choose? Yellow, white or rose gold or perhaps the current favourite, platinum? What kind of jewellery does the intended owner usually wear? If you’re not sure then it might be time for quiet consultation with their friends and family, and though it might break with tradition, if you really want to be sure of getting the right ring then it might save a lot of heartache to choose a ring together.

The vast majority of engagement rings sold are classic diamond solitaires, though even if once you’ve got that far the options don’t stop there. There’s still the setting to decide on. Should you have a solitaire set in prongs holding the stone aloft? Or could the possibility of the prongs catching on clothing be annoying? Perhaps a more flush setting is the order of the day or do you prefer a more traditional setting?

Let us guide through the options with a brief guide to engagement ring stones, styles, cuts and settings.

Styles:

 

Round brilliant solitaire diamond ring

 

 

 

 

 

 

Solitaire – Probably the best known of stone ring styles, the solitaire is a large, single stone generally placed centrally.

 

 

18ct diamond and sapphire ring

 

 

 

 

 

 

Multi-Stone – A few large stones, or one large central stone and two smaller side stones set together. Typically these feature two types of stone like a ruby with two diamonds, or two sapphires and diamond.

 

Flower cluster of round brilliant diamonds

 

 

 

 

 

Cluster – Many stones set together in any overall shape, whether that be a star, flower or circle.

Settings:

 

Claw-set round brilliant diamond ring

 

 

 

 

 

Claw – This describes a setting of prongs, which hold the stone in place and aloft, as such is often seen on solitaire styles. The prongs can catch on clothing occasionally though.

 

Tension-set princess cut diamond ring

 

 

 

 

 

Tension – A contemporary setting that allows a stone to seemingly be held between a break in the metal ring. Whilst there is some debate about their security, they represent the ultimate in sleek, modern styling and a well-made ring shouldn’t posed any problems.

 

Bezel-set diamond ring

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bezel – The stone is held in place by a rim of metal edging all or part of the way around the stone. This also makes the most secure of settings and offers better protection to a stone though does reduce gem visibility a touch.

 

Ring with channel-set diamond shoulders

 

 

 

 

 

 

Channel – Very popular on modern wedding bands due to it’s prettiness. Here smaller stones lie together in a channel within the band, often along the shoulders of the ring leading up to larger central stone. Again, this makes for a very protective, secure setting, though it can reduce stone visibility and be a little more difficult to clean, as you’ll need to get between the gaps in the stones set within the channel.

 

Gypsy-set diamond ban

 

 

 

 

 

Gypsy – Stones are set flush with the metal band, generally completely encased. Often on men’s engagement rings, which are becoming increasingly popular. Again, a style that sacrifices a little visibility but offers more security in it’s place.

Cuts:

Round (Old European) – Stalwart favorite of the Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco eras that came shortly after its introduction in the late 1800’s. The old European or Round cut was designed to increase colour and clarity. While round diamonds today are cut for brilliance, the old European cut was cut for colour

 

Round Brilliant Cut

 

 

 

 

Round Brilliant – The modern round brilliant cut is slightly cone-shaped (it has a slightly dip in the top), which allows for the highest possible number of facets for the maximum possible sparkle. It is intended to enhance the gem’s brilliance with the least sacrifice in carat weight.

 

Cushion-cut diamond with ‘halo’

 

 

 

 

 

Cushion – Just as it sounds, a rectangular pillow shape, full with gently rounded edges. Cut for clarity.

Radiant – Similar to the cushion cut, but with sharp, straight rectangular sides and trimmed corners.

 

Marquise-cut diamond ring

 

 

 

 

 

Marquise – A long oval with tips that end in a point.

 

Three stone ring with emerald-cut diamond

 

 

 

 

 

 

Emerald – A long rectangular stone, it has a greater surface area than most other cuts and therefore looks larger to the naked eye. Long cuts beneath are visible through the stone and offer a dramatic, vintage geometric look. The edges are rounded. Has the effect of elongating the finger.

Asscher – Similar to the Emerald but square stone with the same long cuts

 

Princess-cut diamond ring

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Princess – Extremely popular for engagement rings, this many-faceted brilliant cut, with immense sparkle, has a generally square shape and pointed corners.

 

Heart-cut sapphire and diamond ring

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Heart – Exactly as it sounds, a solitaire in the shape of the classic symbol of love.

 

Pear or Teardrop cut diamonds

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pear (Teardrop) – This diamond is generally worn with the point facing away from the wearer.

 

Oval-cut diamond ring

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oval – Can be very long and slender, or slightly wider. This cut can accentuate the length and slenderness of the wearer’s finger.

 

Cabochon topaz with diamonds

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cabochon – A gem, usually a coloured stone rather than a diamond, that has been polished but not faceted.

Rose – A seldom seen cut these days, this is a dome-shaped stone with a flat bottom dating back to the 16th century, this shape rises to a single point, resembling the shape of a rose bud

Not a diamond-lover? Stand out from the crowd with one of these alternative engagement rings:

 

Ruby and diamond ring

 

 

 

 

 

Pink tourmaline and diamond ring

 

 

 

 

 

 

18ct Diamond and Pink Sapphire ring

 

 

 

 

 

 

Emerald with diamond halo ring

 

 

 

 

For more engagement ring options, view the collection here.